Carmona
Carmona microphylla
The Fukien Tea is one of the most rewarding indoor bonsai you can own — small white flowers, tiny red berries, and dark green leaves with a naturally compact growth habit. But it's not beginner-friendly in the way a Ficus is. It demands consistency. If you're willing to give it stable conditions and regular attention, it will reward you with flowers nearly year-round.
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Watering
Carmona is sensitive to both drought and overwatering — it wants consistency. Use the submersion method: place the pot in room-temperature water to halfway up, wait until bubbles stop, lift out and drain. Do this when the soil surface feels dry to the touch.
Check daily. In summer, it may need water every 1-2 days. In winter, every 3-4 days. The tree will tell you if you've waited too long — the leaves droop noticeably. Water immediately if you see this, and it should recover within hours. But repeated drying out will cause leaf loss.
Carmona microphylla is native to subtropical regions of southern China and southeast Asia, where it grows in consistently moist, well-draining soils. In a bonsai pot, it's less forgiving than many species. The roots are fine and sensitive — they rot in stagnant water and die back if they dry out completely.
Submersion every 5-7 days provides thorough, even moisture. Between submersions, top-water when the surface feels dry. Use room-temperature water; cold water shocks the roots. Carmona prefers slightly acidic to neutral water (pH 6.0-7.0). Very hard tap water can cause chlorosis over time — if you see yellowing between leaf veins, switch to rainwater or filtered water.
The tree appreciates high humidity. A humidity tray is strongly recommended. Daily misting with lime-free water helps, especially during flowering when dry air causes flowers and buds to drop prematurely.
Light & Placement
Carmona needs bright light — more than most indoor bonsai. Place it directly next to a south-facing window where it gets at least 4-5 hours of sun. In winter, a grow light isn't optional for this species; it's essential. Without it, leaf drop and leggy growth are almost guaranteed.
This is a warmth-loving tree. It thrives at 20-25 degrees C and suffers below 15 degrees C. Keep it away from drafty windows and doors in winter. It can go outside in summer (June-August) in a sheltered, partially shaded spot — the fresh air and extra light will trigger a growth spurt and more flowers.
Carmona microphylla requires consistently high light levels to maintain compact growth and flowering. In its native habitat, it receives filtered but bright light year-round. In northern Europe, even a south-facing window provides inadequate light from October through March.
A full-spectrum LED grow light (5000-6500K, 12-14 hours daily in winter) is highly recommended. Position 20-25cm above the canopy. Without supplementary light, the tree will become leggy, flower production will cease, and older leaves will drop. The tree also needs stable temperatures — fluctuations of more than 5-8 degrees C within a day can trigger leaf drop. Avoid placing near radiators, air conditioning vents, or drafty windows.
Outdoor placement in summer: acclimate gradually over 10-14 days, starting with 1-2 hours of morning sun in a sheltered location. Never expose to midday summer sun directly — the leaves scorch. Bring indoors when nighttime temperatures drop below 15 degrees C.
Pruning & Shaping
Carmona responds well to regular trimming. When new shoots grow 4-5 leaves, cut back to 2 leaves. This keeps the naturally dense growth compact and encourages branching.
The wood is quite hard and brittle once mature, so wire young, flexible branches. Check wire every 2 weeks — the branches thicken slowly but the bark marks easily. Major structural pruning is best done in late winter, just before the spring growth surge.
Carmona has a naturally compact, bushy growth habit with small leaves — traits that make it well-suited to bonsai. It responds to pruning by producing buds at the cut site and from older wood, though back-budding is less aggressive than on species like Chinese Elm or Ficus.
Maintenance pruning: trim new shoots throughout the growing season. Allow 4-5 leaves to develop, then cut back to 2. Directional pruning guides branch development. The tree flowers on new growth, so if you want flowers, allow some shoots to extend slightly longer before trimming.
Structural pruning: best in late winter (February-March) before new growth begins. Use sharp, clean tools. Seal all cuts over 3mm with cut paste — Carmona wounds are slower to heal than Ficus or Elm. The wood is hard and brittle; use concave cutters for clean, flush cuts.
Wiring: aluminium wire on younger branches only. Older branches are brittle and snap rather than bend. Apply at 45 degree angle, not tightly. Check every 14 days. Guy wires are preferable to wrapped wire for repositioning older branches.
Feeding & Soil
Carmona benefits from regular but moderate feeding. Use a balanced liquid bonsai fertiliser every 2 weeks during the growing season. Reduce to monthly in autumn. Stop feeding in winter unless the tree is under a grow light and still growing — in that case, monthly at half strength.
Standard bonsai soil works well. Carmona prefers slightly acidic to neutral conditions. Good drainage is essential — the roots are sensitive and will rot in compacted or waterlogged soil.
Carmona is a moderate feeder with slightly acidic soil preferences (pH 5.5-6.5). A fertiliser formulated for acid-loving plants (azalea/rhododendron formula) works well, though standard balanced fertiliser is also acceptable.
Feeding strategy: Spring through summer: balanced NPK (7-7-7) every two weeks. Reduce nitrogen in late summer to harden growth. During flowering, slightly higher phosphorus supports bloom production. If the tree shows chlorosis (yellowing between leaf veins), check soil pH — alkaline conditions lock up iron. Correct with an iron supplement or switch to rainwater for irrigation.
Soil: Standard bonsai mix (akadama, pumice, lava rock in equal parts) works well. Carmona prefers slightly more moisture retention than arid species — increasing the akadama ratio slightly (2:1:1) helps. Repotting interval of 2 years prevents soil compaction, which is critical for this species.
Repotting
Repot young Carmona every 2 years in early spring, just before new growth starts. The roots are fine and sensitive, so be gentle. Remove about one-quarter to one-third of the root mass, focusing on thick or circling roots.
After repotting, keep the tree in a warm, humid spot out of direct sun for 2-3 weeks. Don't fertilise for 6-8 weeks — Carmona roots heal slowly and are easily burned by fertiliser salts while recovering.
Carmona has a fine, fibrous root system that is more sensitive than most bonsai species. Root pruning must be conservative and precise. Signs repotting is needed: water drains poorly, roots circle the pot interior, or growth has slowed despite good care.
Use a root hook gently — aggressive combing tears the fine roots. Remove approximately 25-30 percent of the root mass, focusing on thick, downward-growing roots. Preserve fine feeder roots carefully. Use a soil mix that drains well while retaining some moisture.
Aftercare is critical. High humidity (60-70 percent) significantly improves recovery. A clear plastic bag with ventilation holes placed over the tree for the first week creates a beneficial microclimate. Keep temperatures stable at 20-25 degrees C. The tree may drop some leaves from transplant shock — maintain stable conditions and it will recover within 3-4 weeks.
Troubleshooting
Carmona signals problems clearly. Leaf drop is the most common alarm — it can mean too little light, a cold draft, dry air, or inconsistent watering. Check the basics: is it getting enough light? Is the soil consistently moist? Is it away from drafts? Yellow leaves usually indicate overwatering or nutrient deficiency. If flowers or buds drop, the air is too dry — increase humidity.
This is a tree that rewards stable, consistent care. Most problems trace back to an environmental change. Return to stable conditions and the tree usually recovers.
Carmona is more demanding than most indoor bonsai but its problems are usually diagnosable with systematic checking. Work through these in order: light (bright enough? winter supplement?), water (consistent moisture without saturation?), temperature (stable? above 15 degrees C?), humidity (adequate? tray and misting in use?).
Common pests: spider mites (fine webbing, stippled leaves — treat with insecticidal soap every 5-7 days for 3 cycles), scale (brown bumps — remove with alcohol, follow with neem oil), and mealybugs (white cottony masses — dab with alcohol). Carmona is more susceptible to pests when stressed, so prevention through good care is the best defence.
Chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins): usually iron deficiency from alkaline soil or hard water. Switch to rainwater and apply an iron supplement. Root rot: sour-smelling soil, wilting despite moisture. Repot immediately, trim affected roots, use fresh soil. Recovery is possible if caught early.
Detaljeret plejevejledning
Fugtighed
Carmona bonsai kræver højere luftfugtighed. Brug en fugtighedsbakke eller spray bladene regelmæssigt, især om vinteren, hvor indeluften har tendens til at være tørrere.
Temperatur
Carmona bonsai foretrækker varme temperaturer mellem 15°C og 25°C. Hold den væk fra træk eller pludselige temperaturændringer, og beskyt den mod frost.
Skadedyr
Hold øje med almindelige skadedyr som bladlus og spindemider. Behandl angreb med insekticid sæbe eller neemolie.
Dvaletilstand
Carmona holdes generelt som en indendørs bonsai, men den har godt af en dvaleperiode i de koldere måneder. I løbet af denne tid bør du reducere vanding og gødning, og undgå beskæring.